Should I get a GVM upgrade for my D-Max ute?
QUESTION #1
Hi John,
Confused would have to be an understatement: I had purchased a D-Max and the dealer wouldn’t do a pre-rego GVM upgrade for fear of effecting the IDAS System [driver assistance/collision avoidance features]. Got my money back after paying it in full.
Then, I put a deposit on a Hilux 4x4 extra cab chassis auto SR and got frightened off by people in the industry with regard to the Hilux DPF issue and the LandCruiser air filter dusting problem along with the bad talk online.
I am a serious buyer and really liked the Hilux with the D-Max a close second.
I would love your input, how this works and a price if at all possible.
Thank you,
Stewart
ANSWER #1
Stewart,
Mate, what do you want to do with this vehicle?
GVM upgrades are ridiculous. Ridiculous. (So, you dodged a bullet there.)
Please advise what you want to use the vehicle for.
JC
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QUESTION #2
Hi John,
Thanks for coming back to me and I love your no frills approach to reviews that cut through the bullshit and shiny bits.
We are looking to travel with some outback travel thrown in.
Also, I was having an aluminium canopy made for a cab chassis 4x4 and have put that on hold. By the time I was putting a bullbar and winch on the vehicle it was going to leave little weight to put in the tray/canopy.
I have also considered towing a small 1600kg trailer like a Camel Beachcomber to get away from the GVM upgrade.
Spoke to Pedders about just accommodating for the extra weight for a bullbar/winch if I was pulling a trailer and they indicated it would still be a 2 inch lift, at the same price, although without the pre-rego certification, so it’s best to go with a GVM upgrade regardless.
Combine this with the new technology and having that play up while in the outback and the bad reports on a the Hilux, I have no idea what to do.
I’ve also considered a pre-loved low kms ute.
Confused to say the least.
Stewart
ANSWER #2
Stewart,
I’m going to be perfectly blunt with you here:
Do you really need all of that shit? How often do you suppose you’ll be actually winching the vehicle?
Are you ever going to drive in terrain where you would not get through without the 2-inch lift? (Pro Tip: Lifting a ute, which already handles relatively poorly, is a great way to ruin the on-road dynamics. And that’s where the vehicle will be spending most of its time: 80-110km/h on various sealed and unsealed made roads.)
Putting a canopy on a ute makes it into a wagon - only not as good as an actual wagon. So there’s that.
Most utes have a payload of about 1000kg (inclusive of people, luggage and towball download). So 2 x people and sundry personal crap = 200kg, plus towball download of about 200kg = 400kg. Leaving 600kg (max) for other crap. Complete heavy towing guide: GVM, GCM, payload, towball limits explained >>
Modifying a new vehicle just to get it to do what you want is nuts. If a ute won’t do what you want, buy a 4X4 truck >>. Or just travel lighter, dude.
GVM upgrades are a set of springs and shocks, right? Pro Tip 2: the chassis doesn’t get miraculously stronger. Check out my ‘bent ute chassis’ report to see the result. There’s no warranty claim when this kind of thing happens, obviously.
The real skill with outback travel is learning to say ‘no’ to the likes of ARB and Pedders. Just put a slightly more rugged A/T set of tyres on the vehicle, do an easy trip (like the Birdesville track) and see how it goes. Modify only as needed, if you get more adventurous.
Get a wagon, like a Pajero Sport and sing out when you know what you want - we can get you a discount.
JC
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